So, instead of Rob and I throwing out tons of different threads and hijacking everyones track threads, I thought I'd just start an thread we can build on.

Here's the revised list. Stuff in green is completed, orange is in progress:


To Do List

• Timing Belts
• Front Engine Seals
• Vacuum Hoses
• Plugs
• Ignition Wires
• 3 Wheel Bearings
• Mount Fire Extinguisher
• Install 17" Mirror
• Install Strut Brace
• Install Front Coil-overs
• Install Rear shocks
• Install Torsion Bars
• Install Front Tow Hook
• Install Rear Tow Hook
• Water Pump
• Air Filter
• Oil Cooler
• Gauges
• Reinstall Dash
• Reinstall Alternator
• Reinstall Intake Manifold
• Reinstall Fuel Rail
• Install Right Side Net
• Install Momo wheel and NRG Quick Release
• All Sorts of Derlin Bushings
• R888 tires
• Install headers
• Custom Exhaust
• Buy extra wheels
• Remount street tires
• Install Transponder
• Rebuild Calipers
• Install Stainless Steel Brake Line
• Coolant Flush
• Transaxle Fluids
• Oil Change
• New O2 Sensor
• Rebuild throttle body
• Replace driver's side rear trailing arm
• Replace Torsion Tube Mounts
• Refresh Battery Box
• Wire Cutoff Switch
• Rewire Accessory Plug
• Build New Gauge Cluster
• Apply Decals
• Install new Tie Rod Ends
• Install new control arms
• Install new ball Joints
• Install SFI roll bar padding
• Remove A/C Compressor
• Remove rotor baking plates
• Remove parking brakes
• Replace Oil Pump Drive Gear
• Rear Cam Tower Gasket
• Clutch Master Cylinder
• Cluth Slave Cylinder
• Install Clutch Kit
• Replace rear main seal
• Replace clutch fork
• Rod Bearings
• Oil Pan Gasket
• Oil Pan Baffle
• Fuel Filter
• Purchase Second Set of Cookie Cutters and Tires
• Replace Starter
• Apply racing stripes
• Rear Fuel Line
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Replace 3 Broken Lifters
• Replace Valve Springs
• install 924S Transaxle
• Replace clutch fork
• Install 25.5mm Turbo Front Sway Bushings
• Install Derlin Front Sway Bar Bushings
• Install 18mm Turbo Rear Sway Bushings
• Install Derlin Rear Sway Bar Bushings

It has become quite a list. We are refreshing almost every single bushing, mount, and hose. The only things we aren't doing right now are motor mounts and transaxle mounts. The motor mounts are $300 and the ones that are there look good, so that is going to wait. We are going to need to replace the transaxle before the end of the season, so we'll do the mounts then.

We are also making the car really nice. I know it's a race car, but why can't they look good? Besides the intake manifold, fuel rail, and throttle cam we are also have the strut housings, calipers, and tow hooks powder coated. I'll probably have a set of wheels powder coated as well. Fresh paint for the body will have to wait until next season, but I think I'll have some nice racing stripes cut for this year.

Origionally, I wanted to spend $4500 on the build this year. I think I'm much closer to $7000, right now. After I find a replacement transaxle, the total build cost will be $13,500-$14,000 including the purchase of the car. That's a little high for these cars, but most builds reuse a lot of parts and bushings--we are replacing everything.

Let me know if anyone wants to lend a hand. There's lots of work left to do.

-bj

Here's our intake manifold:



Ever wondered what $3000 in new Porsche parts look like spread around BJ's office floor? Wonder no more:




Sorry for the blurry cell phone pics

The front corner laid bare thanks to the efforts of John Hoffner, Bob Mondschein, and the beotch barr.




What the heck do we do with all this stuff?


Seems BJ has some ideas...



Time to start on the rear.



One well-bent trailing arm? CHECK!



Nope, we're not done yet!



This still had to come out:



The giant bar (torsion tube) in the last picture is what we usually use to hold the car with jack stands. In its absence some creativity had to be applied to reach the factory lift points.




Right, onto the interior.



Ok, let's start from scratch.


New wires run from the cut-off switch to the battery.


Brent follows the light


The original cluster with its funky down-swinging tach and yellow indicators


IT'S ALIVE! Frankencluster, made up of 924, 944, and 911 gauges, in all its easy to see, UP-swinging-tach glory.


Lookin' mighty race-car like in here

Just a question this time. Whose tow hooks are you using or are they something you fabbed up? I must say your list is bigger than mine!

The tow hooks are made by KLA Industries: http://www.paragon-products.com/product ... 44.020.htm



-bj

With this massive list of things, I doubtful that I can make the Memphis school. Especially because I have family coming into town this weekend. So I've signed up for the NASA school at Gateway. I'd like to have the car done for the PCA HPDE at the beginning of April.

Things are looking positive for the NASA weekend at Gateway. Registration is now open. There are 17 944 Spec drivers planning on attending. Even if we only get half of that, it will be a great field!

-bj

Just to keep the thread complete, here's a link to last season's work: http://www.clownshoemotorsports.com/bui ... 944_Build/

-bj

When is the NASA school? Is it in conjunction with their race weekend?

Yep. The school is Sat and your first race on Sun. Cost $300 for the weekend!

-bj

So progress on the car has been slow this week. If we divide the car up we can look at it as 4 big projects:

* Motor work
* Front Suspension
* Rear Suspension
* Interior/Safety work

The interior/safety is completely done. Right now, we are waiting on more parts from Germany to finish all of the other projects.

The past two nights have been spent primarily on the front of the motor. This project got a lot bigger because of problems with bolts. Who ever serviced this motor last did a terrible job. The over torqued everything and in some cases used the wrong hardware.

Problem #1:
When I was removing the water pump one of the bolts snapped, leaving most of it in the block. There was a lot of thread left showing, so not a problem, right? I jammed two nuts on it as close to the block as possible. Of course, it snapped almost flush to the block. Porsche didn't over engineer the water pump mounting, so this bolt was absolutely necessary to prevent leaks.

This is where Rob saved the day. He was able to carefully drill out the bolt and re-tap the hole. It was tough work because directly behind this hole is the #1 cylinder wall. Drill too deep, and you're looking for a new motor.

Problem #2
The wrong retaining bolt was installed in the shaft for the ignition rotor and we couldn't get it to turn. We tried until we rounded it off. This has to be removed so we car remove the timing belt pulley on the cam to replace the seal. Rob again went to town with the rotary tool. This time he cut a slot and we attempted to remove the bolt with a screw driver. We put so much torque on the screw driver that the shaft actually twisted--the bolt did not. So we whipped out our beeotch of a screw driver. This is absolutely the biggest flat head craftsmen makes. That was finally enough.

Problem #3
The bolt that holds the cam gear is a 10mm cheese head. You're probably thinking "What does the cam gear have to do with a Green Bay Packers fan, and why is the fan so tiny?" Well in Porsche speak, a cheese head is a bolt that is driven by a bit that looks like a torx, but has twelve points. Basically it is the most worthless thing ever invented. The first attempt to remove this, destroyed our cheese head bit. The interesting thing about a cheese head is that you can use a allen bit to turn it, but it usually damages the bolt. Our attempt at this did indeed damage the bolt, but it didn't break it free. So basically we're screwed. The bolt is recessed, so we can't slot it. We will have a touch time drilling it without damaging the cam.

We're out of ideas, so let us know if you have any.

Problem #4
Last night I started rebuilding the throttle body. This basically means stripping it bare, cleaning it, and replacing all of the seals. Disassembly was easy, but it is nearly impossible to reassemble without tearing some very important seals. Of course one these tore, so now it's a trip to Lowe's to find a replacement. From what I've read they are difficult to find and Porsche won't sell them to you.

Problem #5
Who ever last replaced the lower balance shaft seal over-torqued the bolts for the front housing. My Porsche's M44/10 block is aluminum. When you over-torque aluminum with a big 8.8 grade bolt, the bolt wins. Two of the three mounting holes are completely stripped. We are considering tapping these with a larger size and using bigger hardware. Because the mounting hole protrude from the block, the other option is drilling all the way through, and use a longer bolt on with a nut on the backside. I kind of like this option because it won't require modifying the front housing, and we won't be able to over-torque the bolts.

The only true success is that the race ready control arm are assembled with the new ball joints and derlin busings and all of the lower motor seals are installed.

Hopefully we can get some of this knocked out this weekend.

-bj

Would you like some cheese to go with that whine?



Just kidding of course! Keep plugging away and get this P-car in a race! Are you still planning on the PCA event for shakedown if all goes well?

Yep. I've already paid for Friday. I'm instructing Sat and Sun.

Considered a Helicoil repair on the stripped thread?

Stripping the cheese head actually is quite common. The only way I have heard of to remove this is to drill it out. People usually remove the entire cam tower though as it makes it easier to work on. Call Karl at Imagine Auto in KC if you want comments from someone who has been through it. PM me if you need the number.

I second the helicoil idea on the balance shaft mounts. I have heard that they work well.

Saw this on TV....have no idea if it is really capable of doing what they say or not!

http://www.official-tv-online.net/grab/?gclid=CO7O4aif6pECFScdOAodZ0U2Rg

Damon

Brent ... I have this brand new if you want to borrow / destroy it

Wow, what a story! That car is really fighting you. Glad to hear the new control arms are in